Coyote Broad's Advice for
Camping With Your Dog(s) in the USA

Camping with a dog (or dogs) in the USA can be a joyous experience for both owner and dog. A dog is thrilled at the new smells and sites of a camp site. You will see new characteristics in your dog when you are camping with him or her (or them); my dogs, when we go camping, walk a little faster, open their eyes a little wider, and raise their heads a little more high when we're out in the wilds. They become puppies again! Dogs discover interesting features you might otherwise overlook. Unlike hiking, your dog does not have to be in the best physical shape to just go camping, and you can take more supplies with you than you can when backpacking. My favorite photos of me and my dogs. This page was created as a companion piece to Terri Watson Rashid's excellent, Hiking/Backpacking with Canines back in the mid-1990s (I used to link to her page, but it's moved so many times and I can't keep up with it anymore). In addition to my own experiences camping with my dogs, this page uses some material from Terri's original site (with permission). Contents Who Can Participate? Preparations Equipment Where to Camp? Heat Exhaustion or Stroke Pick It Up or Else Winter parking lot danger Be Nice and Help Us All Out Other Related Resources Moving to Germany with your dog(s)

Who Can Participate?

If you think you could go camping without a dog, you can probably go camping with one. The additional constraints if you bring a dog, or dogs, are that you must be

1. physically able to restrain your dog (or dogs) in the presence of distractions, such as deer, squirrels and other critters
   
2. responsible enough to prevent the dog from being a nuisance to other campers or animals. This includes picking up after your pet!
   
3. prepared to be as self-contained as possible, because you can't leave your pets in a car, unattended, for more than just a VERY few minutes.

If you are going to camp with a dog (or dogs), it is important that the dog(s) is (are) well-behaved around other people (both adults and children) and animals. Camping, particularly in the evening and mornings, is a relaxing time - fellow campers may have just finished a long day of hiking or driving. While a campsite may be lively during the day, once it starts to get dark, it's time to settle down. Your dog will need to understand when play time is over and how to be quiet (no barking!).

If your dog has never been to dog school, ENROLL NOW. The cost is minimal and it will make you a better, more responsive dog owner, as well as a better camper with a dog. In fact, you will have an even deeper relationship with your dog.

On her Hiking/Backpacking with Canines page, Terri Watson makes this excellent point:

Good canine manners will go a long way towards creating good will and increased tolerance of canine presence. Know your dog. Be aware of what situations may make him act strangely or provoke an aggressive or defensive reaction. Then prevent these situations or, if unavoidable, be prepared to deal appropriately with them. You should never take a dog out on the trail if you feel there is any chance of someone being injured by him.

If you take your dog camping without preparation and training, you are setting yourself up not only to make other campers angry and get yourself thrown out of a site, but also, to fuel efforts to ban dogs altogether from camp sites.

Dog-Aggressive Dogs
For 11 years, I had a lovely Australian Shepherd mix, Wiley, and for 15 years, a boisterous Beagle/Basset Hound mix, Buster. I then had an angel of a German Shepard-mix, Albi. Now, I have bouncy, skittish, curious, dog-loving Mexican mutt named Lucinda. All have great affection for people, and three of them were great with other dogs, but Wiley would attack another dog on sight -- and go for the kill. It's not easy camping with such a dog, but it can be done, through a great deal of caution, sensitivity to surroundings and responsibility on the part of the owner (me!). It was worth it to me because of how much he loved to go camping and how happy he was for many days after a trip. I have notes throughout this guide on how I did it. If you have a dog-aggressive dog and don't think you can do ALL of the precautions I mention, I strongly urge you NOT to camp with your dog.

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Preparations

• Vaccinations and License
  It is of absolute importance that your dog's vaccinations be up-to-date, as dogs can encounter non-vaccinated animals while camping, even if your dog or dogs are leashed at all times (as they should be). Dog licenses should also be current. And ask your vet about the areas where you will be camping/traveling, as some carry additional health risks for dogs and may warrant additional precautions..

• Chip Your Dog
  Your dog needs to be chipped, and you need to make sure your contact information is up-to-date with your vet and whomever is responsible for the chip's information.

• Have a tag on your dog
  Your dog needs to have a tag on his or her collar that has your name, phone number and email address. Remember: chips sometimes cannot be found by scanners, or the nearest vet may be very far away.

• Know Your Dog
  What excites your dog? What puts your dog "on guard"? What makes your dog bark, growl or whimper? How does your dog deal with children? How does your dog deal with large dogs, small dogs, female dogs, male dogs, and certain breeds? Know your dog's language, know what sets him off, and know how to calm him down. Learn to read his eyes, ears and body posture. Remember that that a tail wag means only a dog is highly interested in something - it's not necessarily an indication of happiness. If you can't anticipate your dogs reactions to various situations, there is no way you are ready to camp with your dog.

  Dog obedience classes are ESSENTIAL for you to understand dogs. If you have never been in a dog obedience class with your dog, I do NOT believe you really know dogs, certainly not well enough to take one camping. I'm not saying your dog has to be perfectly behaved - mine never were. But I could get them to be quiet.

• Start With Short Day Trips
  Dogs stress out when their routine changes, even if they like the change. Too much stress can lead to erratic, even aggressive behavior or illness. Getting your dog used to the many scenarios he'll encounter while camping in the weeks before your trip is EASY (really!) and fun. It will also help you further know and bond with your dog (and this is always, always a good thing):
  
  
  1. take your dog on a day trip every week, for at least three weeks, over the span on a month or two. Take along the dog bed and dog bowl you intend to use while camping. Try to replicate the situations your dog will experience during a camping trip: long drives, walking and relaxing in a new area, having a meal, your dog sitting in the backseat while you get gas, etc. The first time - especially the first day - will be the hardest. When your dog realizes there is a routine and knows what to expect, the dog will anticipate and enjoy being away from home. My dogs always "got it" by day two.
     

  2. put up your tent in your back yard for a week. Sit inside of it each day and read a book or listen to music for a few minutes (an hour is best), and put your dog's bed beside you. Don't force your dog inside, but do give your dog lots of attention if he joins you. Even if he never joins you, you will have helped sensitize him to the tent.

• Physical Demands
  While camping with your dog is not nearly as physically-demanding as hiking, for many dogs, camping will mean some increase in physical activity, however slight; there will be more opportunities for walking, running and exploring than are usually found in their day-to-day routine, and the terrain may be more challenging. A visit to the veterinarian to evaluate general health is a good idea before your dog camps for the first time. We did this for Lucinda, right after we adopted her - she was seven months old. We told the vet that we wanted to take her hiking when he felt she was ready, and because of her breed (a greyhound mix) and health (as a rescue from a shelter in Mexico, she didn't get good, regular nutrition in her early months), he suggested we wait until she was at least a year and to take her on a LOT of small trips to start.
  

• LEASH YOUR DOG
  No matter how well-behaved you think your dog is, it is both impolite and dangerous to other campers (and dangerous to your dog) NOT to have your dog somehow under your control at all times. Your friendly, unleashed dog could wander into a campsite where there is a dog-aggressive dog (like mine), or a dog-aggressive PERSON, and the results can be disastrous, even deadly. Your dog could chase after a small, wild critter and get hit by a vehicle or run off a cliff (it happens ALL the time). Don't chance it -- keep your dog leashed. As someone on a dog-hike discussion group noted, "while he is your 'puddin', sweetums', or darlin', to the rest of the world he is an unfamiliar 40 pound carnivore." Don't assume every person is a dog lover and wants to get a closer look.

• Notify a Friend, and Sometimes, a Ranger
  This isn't a tip just for camping with your dog -- it's a tip for camping in general, and it's too important to exclude from this tip sheet: let a friend or neighbor know what your travel plans are. If you are entering BLM (Bureau of Land Management) land to camp, it's also a good idea to let the nearest ranger station know you are going in, particularly if you are alone. You are at risk for adverse encounters with wildlife, weather or people the more remote you are. A ranger station may tell you about reports of bear or cougar in an area. Also talk to the camp host, if there is one. Don't rely on a cellular phone; coverage is not good in many areas and technology fails (batteries die, phones get dropped and break, you can't get a signal, etc.). Make arrangements to check in with a friend upon your return, or during a trip, and let them know when that is supposed to happen; the check-in is essential because, if you often forget to check back with them when you get home, then when you're really in trouble it may take an extra day for them to realize that there's a problem and notify searchers.

Equipment

• Dog identification tags
  The s-hook-style attachments on collars for tags often fail -- my dog had one once; it's now somewhere on a beach south of Carmel, California. Instead, use a small, strong key ring to hold tags on the collar. There are also collars that allow tags to be fastened flat against the collar. Make sure your tag has your name, your city and state of residence, your phone number or email address, and, of course, the dog's name. If there is room for your vet's phone number too, great.
  

  Gwen Baggett says she camps with her three dogs and, each time, she uses an "instant" pet name tag machine (found at many pet stores, discount stores, strip malls, large grocery stores and vet offices) to make a temporary tag for each dog, in addition to the regular tags they wear:

  "Cameo"
  Fall Creek Falls State Park
  Campsite E-6
  8/17/2003--8/21/2003
  She says, "If we do not know the campsite ahead of time, we might leave it blank or put 'contact ranger.'"

  I made a tag to for one of my dogs, Wiley, that said "Aggressive to Dogs, Not to People."

  In addition, it's vital to have a data chip implanted in your dog; many veterinarians and animal shelters have scanners that will pick up this chip, which provides identification, license and vaccination information. There are different brands of microchips that require different scanners (readers), so make sure the shelters in your area have scanners for the chip you are going to have implanted. I got both my dogs "microchipped", then moved to a new city and got a new vet who used a different microchip; she used her brand of scanner to see if my dogs' chip would show up; they did, although the information was unreadable. Still, as she pointed out, were my dog to be found by someone else, a shelter or vet with a scanner would at least know if the dog was owned by someone, even if the chip information wasn't readable.

  Tattoos are often hard (if not impossible) to find on the dog, and hard to interpret once they are found, so I don't recommend them.

• leash
  Be certain before setting out that you have a leash, snap, collar and buckle in good condition and will not break if the dog suddenly lunges. Carry an additional collar and leash, just in case (you will be surprised how often you end up needing it). I bring two leashes per dog -- one style is a tough, thick leash, used when I need to keep my dogs absolutely under my control, such as with my dog-aggressive Australian Shepherd when any other dogs might be around; the other style is retractable, which is an excellent leash for when there are no other dogs around, and my dogs want to explore more freely.

• tether
  Using the thick leash and a specially-designed tether that fastens around a tree, a picnic table leg, my truck's back tire, etc., I can create a really long restraint that allows my dogs almost total freedom within our campsite. If you have two dogs, tether them far apart -- just close enough so that they can be side-by-side only at the end of both restraints -- otherwise, dog tangles occur. And what a pain THAT can be....

• harness (for the seat belt)
  You may be a wonderful driver, but many people aren't. Plus, driving on poor and/or curvy roads can send your dog all over the insides of the car, if not through the windshield. I put my dogs each in a dog body harness, then run a seat belt through each harness. The dogs can sit or lay down, but can't be thrown around the car. It also keeps them in the back seat, which is the coolest place in the truck, when I have to run into a store or something.

  If you have a truck with a bed and don't allow your dog in the cab (which, in my opinion, is ridiculous, but...), please purchase a dog carrier and put your dog in it when he or she travels with you; the carrier should offer your dog just enough room to stand up and turn around in, but no more. Dogs die from falling or jumping out of the bed of a truck, from being thrown against the cab during a sudden stop; even leashing them to something in the bed of the truck is no protection, as dogs have also hung themselves while trying to jump out. A dog carrier is the ONLY humane way to travel with your dog in the bed of your truck. Padding the floor, ceiling and sides offers even better protection.

  You may have taken your dog in the bed of your truck, unprotected, a dozen times, or even a hundred times, and never had any problems. So have all the people who now have dead dogs from riding unprotected in the bed of their trucks.


• bedding
  Bring bedding (a dog bed or a thick blanket AND an air mattress, at least) to keep your dog off the ground, even in the tent. If it's a cloth bed, you need something under the bed -- tarp, plastic, etc. -- to keep the cold from the ground coming up through the bedding and chilling your dog. A tarp will go a long way in keeping the dog bedding dry and clean. Also plastic underneath cloth beds that are laid directly on the ground, outside the tent, to keep out moisture.
  
  For my dogs, bringing their home beds along while camping is as much behavioral support as comfort; they believe that wherever their beds are, that's home. I put their beds in the back for the car or truck ride, and they are content for the whole drive. I bring a doggy outfit for Lucinda, my very short haired, very skinny dog. It's thick and flannel and she hates it, but she's much warmer when she wears it, or even if I lay it over her in her bed.
  

• cold protection
  My Australian Shepherd, Wiley, with his long, thick hair, loved the cold. My Beagle/Basset Hound, Buster, did not. Albi, my German Shepard mix, loves snow and likes the cold. Lucinda loves snow and doesn't mind the cold, but needs a dog sweater when it's going to be cold enough for me to wear a jacket or thermal underwear.
  

  If your dog has thin or short hair, or is small, outfit him or her in a dog sweater or coat. In addition to adequate bedding (see above), ensuring that my dog always slept on something dry, when sleeping in the tent in cold weather, I also threw my coat completely over Buster, including over his head (since I'm in a sleeping bag, I don't need it); within just a few minutes, he'd created a body oven, and because the coat is so big, he could stand up and change positions without losing his cover. Give your dogs additional insulation by letting them curl up against you.

  And, remember -- you MUST have padding under your dog's bed in the tent or on the ground; otherwise, cold comes up from the ground and through the dog bed.

  If your dog is shivering, he's either in pain or he's very, very cold or both! Find out what is making your dog uncomfortable and deal with it immediately. If that means moving to a hotel, so be it!

  One participant in a dog hiking discussion group (see below) noted that she sprays her dogs' feet and tummies lightly with "Pam" for short jaunts through snow; this prevents them from picking up snowballs in their fur, then licking and pulling snowballs for hours.

  If it's below 45 degrees Fahrenheit, I believe it's too cold for a dog and, therefore, we would sleep in the truck or, if it was really, really too cold, in a motel. A discussion on a dog-hike list about this garnered general agreement for 35 degrees or less being too cold for dogs to sleep outside.

• booties
  Depending on the type of terrain and the dog's tendency to tear footpads, if there is going to be ice on the ground at the campsite, or if fire ants might be a problem, or if the terrain is particularly rocky, consider buying some booties to protect your dog's feet. I found some at Goodwill. I was convinced Lucinda would be too freaked out to walk in them, but she walked in them well from day one. Since she spent her first seven months of life in dog shelters, her pads were baby soft when we got her, and even after a year with us, I wasn't sure how tough her feet were, so I think the booties in ice are a good idea (fresh snow I don't worry about).
  

• food and water
  Clean drinking water is a must for both you and your dog. Although natural water sources may be plentiful near a campsite, the water may be contaminated with parasites, harmful bacteria or chemicals. In areas where giardiasis is a problem you should not allow your dog to drink from streams or lakes (call the nearest park ranger station to find out the condition of streams and lakes). In fact, don't let your dog in ANY standing water while camping or hiking - no ponds! Toxic blue-green algae isn't always easy to see, and I have a very good friend whose young, healthy dog died after swimming in such a pond.  

  When camping in primitive sites (which have pit toilets only), I carry a 10 gallon plastic container of water I filled before I left home. When desert camping, the 10 gallon container is our only water source, and it's also an excellent backup should the truck break down far from a water source. I also carry two one-gallon jugs of water -- one for the dogs, and one for me (I carry one for the dogs because Buster liked to lick the opening while the water is coming out into his bowl). The dogs get water at EVERY stop we make (getting gas, rest area, wherever); riding in the truck really dry them out.

  A reader in Arizona offers this advice: "I live in the desert near Lake Mead. In August it gets to 110-116 -- really hot, so even a short trip in the car is blazing to a dog. I have two one gallon milk jugs in my car. I cut one down just underneath the handle, so that it fits on the bottom of the other jug. I fill the jug with water and when my dog needs a drink I slide the 'dish' of the jug and fill it up. I never worry about a water dish because it fits all in one and saves space in the car."

  Don't be fooled by cold weather into thinking you don't need more water. Adequate fluid levels are essential for heat maintenance in both temperature extremes. Drink plenty of water and encourage your dog to do the same. In fact, my dogs have all gotten REALLY dried out in cold weather. And eating snow does NOT hydrate a dog!

• dog food
  I take two-extra days of dog meals beyond our planned stay, just in case. Whatever you use for food storage, it should be sturdy and water proof. It should also be critter proof. If there is a bear box at the camp site, USE IT to store dog food, your food, anything that food has been in, your tooth paste, etc. This isn't just to keep bears out -- there are a variety of critters who will go for dog food or any other food if they smell it. If there is no bear box, but there might be bears around, hang your food in a tree. If bears aren't a danger, then keep all food and potentially smelly items in your vehicle.

• towel
  Even if you don't think you are going to be anywhere near water, bring an extra towel just for the dog(s). You won't regret it. Plus, if you've read The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy, I mean, come on, you need a towel!! There are ultra-absorbent towels you can get from camping shops or pet stores; they dry in just a couple of hours and soak up an amazing amount of water.

• first aid kit
  Your dog does not face as great of a risk of injury or death just camping with you rather than hiking/backpacking with you... but the risks are there, none-the-less.

  Buy a standard First Aid Kit, then enhance it with extra items just for the dogs (extra bandages, extra swabs, etc.). Become familiar with the items in your First Aid Kit and what they are used for.

  Always know where the nearest town is that might have a veterinarian. If your dog becomes injured, do what you can to make your dog comfortable and get to a vet FAST. Your goal when giving a dog First Aid is to stop bleeding, prevent further injury and to calm the dog enough so that you can transport the dog to a vet.

  Medicating your dog is very difficult and can be dangerous -- a dog is not a human; his or her system will often NOT react the same way to medication as a human's. Your dog's weight is also a tremendous factor when considering dosage. I do not suggest you try to medicate a dog except in the most extreme circumstances.

  These are some of the suggestions regarding first aid kits made on various dog-hikig groups. Taking all of these items, however, might not leave room in your vehicle for your dogs!

  A back country EMT on the dog-hike list suggested adding these items (to add the doggy stuff, look in pet catalogs or ask your vet):

  • coated aspirin (do not give regular aspirin to a dog, except by vet's guidance, and don't give any kind of aspirin to a dog unless you have absolutely no alternative)

  • VetWrap- sticks to fur better without pulling out hair

  • Kwik Stop or septic powder

  • Small nail scissors

  • Ear and eye ointment- in 1/8 oz tubs (a little Ottomax and Terramycin)

  • Good tick tweezers and maybe Tick Release

  • Hemostats, needle nose pliers and lighter Razor blade to shave hair from an injured area

  • Butterfly bandages- wound closure strips

  • Waterproof surgical tape

  • Sam splints

  • Secta-soothe

  • Mole skin irrigation needle (to flush eyes and wounds trauma dressing and 4 x 4 bandages)

  • Snake bite kit
    (although she warned, "if your dog gets bit by a rattler and you are way out, give him plenty of love and affection because no one is going to Medflight your dog out of the wilderness, unless it is a certified SAR dog. Sad but true.")

• Other suggestions:

  • Benedryl (in case your dog is stung by a bee or fire ant; keep dosage TINY, like, 1/5 of one pill)

  • Blood stop powder

  • Tube of triple antibiotic (works great for plugging puncture wound)

  • kotex (to absorb blood and act as a dressing)

  • suture packets (sufficient to do the job, the sutures can be taken out later at the vet)

  • bandana

  • hydrogen peroxide, to clean wounds and to induce vomiting (just a TINY amount will do, and do this only if you have no alternative)
  
  Enclose items in a ziplock bag (or several). Back country EMT courses also teach how to improvise things in the field, such as duct tape if you have no Vet Wrap.

She adds "one more thing to remember- dogs can endure a lot more pain then we can - or for that matter than we can watch them go through."

• muzzle
  I always carried a strong, cloth muzzle for my Australian Shepherd mix, Wiley, the dog-aggressive-dog. It allowed him to open his mouth only enough to drink or have a dog treat. If you have a dog-aggressive-dog, you should not only muzzle such a dog in the presence of other dogs, because it conditions the dog to begin to worry as soon as you put the muzzle on. Instead, put the muzzle on whenever you leash the dog; then the muzzle means he's going for a walk -- always a good thing in a dog's mind.

  Even if your dog doesn't bite, BRING A MUZZLE. If your dog is injured, he may need the muzzle to prevent him from biting you or others trying to give him first aid.

• dog fight-deterrents
  I worked very hard to keep my dog aggressive dog away from other dogs. Outside, he was always leashed if there was even a hint of other dogs around, and often muzzled. If I saw another dog, we went in a different direction. Sadly, many dog owners let their dogs run up to strange dogs; and while most of these dogs heard or smelled Wiley and decided they didn't want to go near him, a few decided they wanted to fight (and, afterwards, their owners always said, "Oh, I've never seen Fluffy act like that!").

  Even if you don't have a dog-aggressive-dog, you could encounter one.

  Back in the early 1990s, I carried at least one old empty plastic soda bottle (2 liters), with their light and very crinkly plastic. If you took such a bottle and hit yourself in the head with it, it wouldn't hurt, but it would make a TERRIBLE noise -- it was recommended by my dog trainer to stop dog fights, and it worked like a charm. Unfortunately, soda bottles are now made with VERY hard plastic, and using such would seriously injure the dogs - so please DON'T do it. 
  

  There are some alternatives:

  1. carry a spray bottle filled with water, if dog will startle your dog (Wiley wasn't deterred at ALL by this).

  2. carry a soda can full of pebbles, or some other noise maker, and shake it during a dog fight, or when your dog starts growling (but note that this doesn't work with all dogs -- it never worked with mine). During the break in fighting or posturing that may result from any of the aforementioned, get your dog OUT of the situation.

  3. carry a small air horn (like the kind on boats). It's not only an effective startle effect during dog fights, it works great on bears too, I hear. You can get them at any boating/marine store. Large super Wal-marts may even sell them.

  4. carry a can of Halt!, a mild pepper-spray, the same stuff many letter-carriers have on their belts. It can be bought for under $10 in many cycling stores. Halt! has no lasting effects and can be washed out of the dog's eyes with water. Halt! has a range of only 15' or so, and if there's a wind blowing, you or your dog can get a "back-blast" from it if you're not careful.

Someone also sent me this, and I think for large dogs, it's a great idea:

My girls are anything but aggressive -- they are huge wusses (Malamutes). However, I have had to deal with them trying to take off on me. I finally purchased dual shock collars for them that operate off of one transmitter. Josie is the orange button and Lil' Bit is green one. It has an easily adjustable range of tweaking them a little to making them jump in the air and cry out. Each dog has different sensitivity to it. Josie at 130lbs can barely tolerate the first setting, it goes 1-5. Lil Bit at 105lbs has been hit with 4 to stop her from deer chasing in my woods. It is a whole lot more humane than watching my dog get hurt or hurt someone else. if your dog is in contact with another dog and you zap him, the other dog gets hit too. The other dog won't know what hit him, but it should take the fight out of him! An added plus it that I no longer run after them yelling and screaming to stop. I call them once, if they don't make a visible effort to return to me... And yes, they know what "Mommy fry you!" means. All it takes now is me saying it, and they turn toward me, which is all I want. I paid right around $330 for the dual collars and transmitter. The girls also wear reflective Quick Spot vests and cow bells when it's deer hunting season. My ten acres of woods is fenced in and I and my dogs consider it our back yard, however some of the local poachers view it differently. It would be a good idea to have them wear the vests when camping or hiking too.

• Other items
  Dog comb and brush, dog toys, dog treats, extra bags or newspapers for doggie-business cleanup, and large bags for garbage (please dispose of all garbage and collected poo bags in official garbage receptacles - garbage cans are plentiful in the USA, at every camp ground entrance, every grocery story, and every rest stop.
  

• vehicle heating and cooling systems
  If you are going to be driving through intense heat or cold, your dogs will need the protection your vehicle can provide. For my dogs, heat is the worst of the two extremes (I always worry about heat exhaustion or heat stroke), so I make sure my air-conditioner is in good working order before we take off on a trip.

Where to Camp?

Most state parks allow dogs (sometimes even in cabins and yurts!), and a growing number also allow dogs on some or all hiking trails (dogs must be leashed at all times!).

Private camping sites are hit and miss: some are very accommodating regarding dogs, allowing you to walk everywhere with them, and some limit dog walking to a tiny patch of ground that won't at all meet your dogs' walking needs.

Dogs are allowed in the camp sites of National Parks, National Monuments and National Forests, as well as on or alongside paved roads, but they are usually NOT allowed on trails. The web sites for these always note the rules regarding dogs. State forest camp sites are also usually accommodating to dogs, but the trails may not be (check the official web sites to be sure).

If I have the luxury of using the Web to research camp sites, I do so. If there isn't enough information on the web site, I call or email the camp site. If I don't have that luxury, I have a look at the information board in the front of the camp site I want to stay in. Whether state park, national park or private site, the camp site bulletin board will give you the information you need regarding dogs.

I love camping on Bureau of Land Management land, because there's usually no one else around. However, your chances of wildlife encounters increase on BLM land, so be extra cautious of such.

Unfortunately, uncontrolled dogs and irresponsible pet owners have contributed to the closing of some campsites to dogs, and the hostile reactions by some fellow campers when they see you have dogs with you. Remember: your behavior with your dogs effects ALL campers with dogs! Keep your dog quiet, exhaust your dog with exercise, keep your dog on a leash at all times and never, ever leave your dog alone at a camp site.

Having a dog-aggressive-dog, I made sure I left myself plenty of daylight to find a campsite, allowing for the possibility of having to move later (either because of the dog or because the guy in the adjacent campsite has an RV with a generator running all night).

If you have a dog-aggressive-dog or people-aggressive dog, it is YOUR obligation to keep the dog well away from other dogs or people, especially children. If you have to camp near other campers with a dog, don't hesitate to let them know, in the most friendly but firmest way possible, that you have a dog that should NOT be approached, and that while you will have this dog restrained at all times, they will need to kindly stay away. Most people will respect this and even sympathize; if you encounter someone who is unfriendly or confrontational or hysterical, move; reason won't work, and it's not worth it to try with such people.

A guy I met at a camp site in Billings, Montana had made a small printed sign in a clear sandwich bag telling people to not approach his dog. He hung it from a picnic table near his dog. You may not have your eye on your dog at all times, and such a sign helps warn anyone you might not see approaching your camp site.

Heat Exhaustion or Stroke

Watch your dog for signs of heat exhaustion or stroke. Particularly, unusually rapid panting, and/or a bright red tongue or mucous membranes. The dog's primary mechanism for cooling off is through panting. Since this cooling process uses evaporation the dog will require more water when he is panting heavily. Shorter-nosed breeds (eg, Bulldogs, Pugs) may have a less efficient heat exchange rate, so should be watched especially closely.

Check with your vet for the best ways to cool down an overheated dog. There are more suggestions on The Dog FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions and Their Answers) about this and other dog health issues. There is also more information about heat exhaustion on the archived Backpacking With Your Dog FAQs.

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Pick It Up or Else

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Winter parking lot danger

When going on winter hikes with your dog, keep a keen eye out for puddles in the parking lot. These could be antifreeze. Some people top off their antifreeze when adding it to their cars in a parking lot, spill it, or have their car boil, leaving deadly puddles of antifreeze behind. All it takes is little bit, not even a table spoon, to kill your dog. "A musher in our club lost two dogs to this scenario last year." Even if your dog takes a lick and shows no immediate signs of problems TAKE HIM TO THE VET!!

Be Nice and Help Us All Out

My Favorite Resources Relating to Dogs

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Moving to Germany with your dog(s)

I like to think of it as a really, really long, involved camping trip... in February 2001, I moved to Germany with my dogs. And I've compiled a list of resources and advice I found helpful in getting us all over to Deutschland. I moved back to the USA in April 2009.

Cottonwood Canyon State Park in Oregon, September 2018. Near Wasco and Moro, Oregon. Not far from the Columbia River Gorge. A long weekend car camping trip with our dog that started in Washington State.

Review of Camp Wilkerson, Columbia County, Oregon, from June 2018. Great place to camp and hike over a couple of days. West of Portland, not far from PDX, yet you will feel like you are a million miles away from the city. This was a weekend car camping and hiking trip with our dog.

Review of Trask River County Campground, Tillamook County, Oregon, in March 2022. This was a weekend car camping and hiking trip with our dog, and the maiden voyage of the custom square drop camper built by coyotetrips.

My favorite North American Ghost towns / historic mining towns / pre-1900s towns

Advice for Traveling Around the USA Camping & Hiking

Women's Safety While Tent Camping

Camp however YOU want to!

Disclaimer
Any activity incurs risk. The author assumes no responsibility for the use of information contained within this document.

If you have read anything on coyotebroad.com and found it helpful, or want to criticize it, PLEASE let me know.
Comments are welcomed, and motivate me to keep writing -- without comments, I start to think I'm talking to cyberair. I would welcome your support for my work as well.

 Quick Links 

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Index of resources for women travelers (how to get started, health & safety considerations, packing suggestions, transportation options, etc.
 
Advice for camping with your dogs in the USA
 
Saving Money with Park Passes in the USA
 
Advice for women motorcycle riders and travelers
 
transire benefaciendo: "to travel along while doing good." advice for those wanting to make their travel more than sight-seeing and shopping.
 
Suggestions for Women Aid Workers in Afghanistan (or anywhere in the world where the culture is more conservative/restrictive regarding women)
 
my adventures in Germany
 
my adventures in Europe, Africa, as well as road trips in the USA

Advice for Hotels, Hostels & Campgrounds in Transitional & Developing Countries: the Qualities of Great, Cheap Accommodations

how to support my work

Follow me! @coyotebroad

become Coyote Broad's fan on Facebook

 

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Disclaimer: Any activity incurs risk. The author assumes no responsibility for the use of information contained within this document.

This material is provided as is, with no expressed or implied warranty.

Permission is granted to copy, present and/or distribute a limited amount of material from my web site without charge if the information is kept intact and is credited to Jayne Cravens

Please contact me for permission to reprint, present or distribute these materials (for instance, in a class or book or online event for which you intend to charge).

The art work and material on this site was created and is copyrighted 1996-2022
by Jayne Cravens, all rights reserved
(unless noted otherwise, or the art comes from a link to another web site).

The personal opinions expressed on this page are solely those of Ms. Cravens, unless otherwise noted.